Sunday, June 06, 2010

Farewell Food

The past three weeks have been ridiculously hectic for me, as I transition from life in Kingston, Ontario to life in Prince Edward Island. It didn't help that it was mostly the month of May, also known as 'The Time When Canadians Come Out of Winter Hibernation'. So after four months squirreled away in 'my' house out in the country, I found myself quite abruptly plopped back into life in the bustling metropolis of downtown Kingston, where fellow grad students were up for any sort of distraction from looming theses and celebrating the end of the school year (no more TAing, yay!!).

Suffice to say that, between celebrating the return of warmth and starting the drawn out process of farewells, I have eaten a lot of food. Here are some of the highlights from the last two weeks of my time in Kingston:

Erin's Birthday BBQ Bash - I told Erin I was planning to bring some steaks courtesy of the cut of local cow I'd purchased back in January. I communicated my Bring Your Own Beef plan via the Facebook event wall, and apparently people were quite interested in my steaks. When I arrived, Erin was quite excited and announced 'the local cow has arrived!!'. Um. Erm. Awkward.

Au Pied de Cochon
- What's the furthest distance you've traveled just to have dinner (to the parents at Christmas does not count)? I think I made a new personal record when I set out on the road with Crystal, Matt & Emily for Montreal, where we had made a reservation at Au Pied de Cochon. English Translation: Pig's Feet. I'd become quite obsessed with visiting this restaurant after it had been recommended to me by Joe (of Vermont) and a number of other foodie friends. Apparently the owner/chef, Martin Picard, also has a television show about food, The Wild Chef, but I was oblivious. Regardless, Crystal, my foodie friend, and I had decided awhile ago that we HAD to go to PDC before I lef for PEI. So we drove the three hours, with Crystal's husband, Matt, kindly volunteering to be our sober driver.

To whet our appetite for dinner, we decided to check out the Jean Tallon market. I'd made a promise to myself not to over indulge at the market, since there were precious few (3) hours before our dinner. Luckily, as I'd been in Montreal only a week and a half previous, I was able to fight off many a temptation. The four of us did share the most delectable serving of fried calamari and I ordered a couple of maple-syrup based treats for after dinner (including, as it turned out, the MOST delicious square that has ever touched my lips...made with walnuts, cookie base and maply syrup). I had an inkling none of my dining companions would be interested in dessert at PDC because there'd be no room left in their stomachs. I, on the other hand, had purchased a second stomach on the black market just for this occasion. It most certainly came in handy.

Arriving at PDC, I was surprised to find the restaurant is quite small. Apparently it was formerly a pizzeria, which explained the huge brick oven, lack of normal washroom facilities, and general narrowness of the establishment. Menus were handed round and we decided to share a couple of appetizers between us - a salad of sorts (not a normal one, of course) and a crepe (actually, it looked suspiciously like a pancake to me) with asparagus and egg. I am not doing the dishes justice AT ALL -they were both fantastically delicious and generous enough in quantity that all four of us were able to share. While PDC is well known for for its foie gras (there's even a foie gras poutine), duck-in-a-can and pig's feet, I opted for the PDC Melting Pot - a little bit of everything pig - black sausage, normal sausage, pulled pork, and pork chop, all sitting atop a divine serving of mashed potatoes. I could only eat half...even with that second stomach. No dessert was had and a three hour drive back to Kingston awaited us. It was worth it though, tenfold.

In the last week, excuses to eat ramped up quite a bit:

Crystal & Matt's House Warming BBQ -
Only three days after the PDC affair, I found myself eating and drinking with Crystal & Matt again. This time the venue was their new home in Gananoque, and the celebration was in honour of Matt's birthday (age not to be disclosed). It was a wonderful evening for a barbeque and Crystal had prepared quite the spread of food. There were two tiny pooches and one massive pooch also in attendance. I've determined the answer to that age-old question 'Are you a cat person or a dog person?'. I am most definitely a dog person. Besides the food and canine company, the evening was splendid because I got to hang out with Ana, Ben, Crystal, and Matt, as well as relatively new friend, Carl, and very new friend, Sarah.

You know what really bites (aside from mosquitoes off of Lake Ontario at dusk when you're trying to enjoy a juicy BBQ sausage)? Knowing you're going to be leaving a place that is full of wonderful, amazing friends. The kind of people you want to surround yourself with for life. That's tough.

Shannon's Meat Monday - I still had local beef and lamb left from January, when I bought a rather large amount of meat, and it was being stored at Suzie's parents' house, so with less than a week left in Kingston, I figured the only way to finish it up was to invite people over. So I invited some of my best old friends - Ana, Ben, Suzie and Kopka (the husky did not get a plate of meat), as well as some of my new friends - Cat, Matt and Carl. To be honest, I had an alterior motive for the dinner invitation, I was trying to friend-matchmake some of these wonderful people. I had an inkling they'd hit it off and I was right! Added bonus, the leg of lamb was absolutely divine and the mashed potatoes with skins left on were delectable.

Ana's Multi-Reason BBQ Potluck - What better night for a BBQ than a Tuesday evening? Ana is a fantastic person. Many people know that. Recently Queen's University's Faculty of Applied Science also recognized her amazingness and hired her! Reason enough to celebrate with friends, although Ana had to make sure there were other things to celebrate - like her sister's birthday and her dog's birthday. I made quinoa salad and chocolate cake. The potluck was hopping, everyone I'd hoped to see before I left was there. The evening flew by and, evidently, the wine flowed quit freely as well. Being a 'school night', the party wound down by around ten-ish. Emily and I decided we should go out on the town, which really meant going to the Iron Duke. She was drinking rum & coke and I decided to try to keep up with her even though I was drinking wine. NOT a good idea. At some point, my purse started to resemble a smiling face. The next day was a complete write-off. After very brief consideration, I determined I would have to delay my departure by a day since I'd effectively lost an entire day thanks to Pinot Grigio.

Thai in the Park - I vowed that before I left Kingston I'd make one last visit to the Wok-In, which is a little hole in the wall on Montreal Street that serves up the best Thai food in town. Don't be discouraged by the fact that it's located directly beside Shakers, Kingston's 'premiere' strip club; this little restaurant is worth going to the shady side of town for! Notably, I lived on the shady side of town already, so was never deterred by this. I wanted to say goodbye to Crystal and Emily without the hullabaloo of a party to distract us from important conversations (i.e. boys and the such), so at Ana's BBQ we made a plan to have take-away Thai in Park. Unbeknownst to me, word about our plan got around at the BBQ and by the end of the evening, people were coming up to me and asking if I was planning to go to the Thai in the Park event!! Well, in the end it was just us three girls and Carl who enjoyed Wok-In on a blustery, rainy Thursday afternoon (evidently a 2.00pm start for lunch was too late for people who work day jobs). After lunch Carl & I had hot drinks at the Sleepless Goat, a co-operatively owned cafe on Princess Street that I will miss dearly, although I won't miss the semi-homeless woman who sits outside it, since she once inferred that I was pregnant.

And now, a Farewell to Food
And that's just a sampling of the farewell food I enjoyed over the last couple of weeks in Kingston. Other highlights included the fruit bouquet that Kate and I designed for Chris' birthday, or the last lunch I enjoyed with Ana at Pan Chan Cho's. Now I am back on PEI, and it's time to say farewell to food. Yes, indeed, my days of gluttony and indulgence ended on May 31st. Since I ran the half marathon in October of 2009, I've been packing on the pounds - mostly by eating delicious foods, but also to a lesser extent by neglecting my normal activity level. I blame it all on this business of writing a thesis, although the truth is that I always gain weight when I am living away from PEI and especially when I am in a period of transition. It's time to get back to a healthy weight and, more importantly, to re-develop a healthy relationship with food. I want to feel fit again, and I want to be able to enjoy food without having to buy a whole new wardrobe that includes elastic waistbands and flowy dresses. This past Friday I visited my old nutritionist and am now on a plan that's high in protein, veg and healthy fats, and excludes sugars and starches (for the time being). I've also signed up with the Atlantic Fitness Centre AND Largo Fitness Center, the former offering two excellent exercise facilities and a variety of fitness classes, the latter offering twice daily classes based on Muay Thai Boxing. Let the journey begin!!

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Claire's Restaurant - One Delicious Reason to Stop in Hardwick, VT

I was enamored with Claire's Restaurant before I even set foot in the dining room. And it didn't have anything to do with salivating over an on-line menu, as one might expect. In fact, there is no on-line menu because Claire's menu changes with the seasons, which brings me to my first reason for aforementioned infatuation: the menu is seasonal because it's based on what is available from the farms and producers in the area during any particular season. Approximately 80% of the food prepared by Claire's comes from the very local area. Now, in a place like California, sourcing the vast majority of food for a restaurant locally throughout the year might be a challenge, but certainly one that could be overcome with a bit of tenacity. But Vermont?!? It snows there for several months a year..that's why it's known as a skiing destination, as opposed to a gastro-destination! The growing season is short, and crops limited by the geography and climate. To truly appreciate the brilliance of Chef Steven, I reckon one should hit up the restaurant mid-February and marvel at what he's pulled from the root cellar and sourced from local meat producers, bakers, and cheesemakers to create an enticing meal.


In addition to the restaurant's dedication to buying locally, Claire's also has an impressive on-line presence, with a well-designed website, a fantastic blog that's updated regularly, AND they tweet regularly (@clairesvt)! In addition to highlighting in-season foods that are featured on their menu (e.g. fiddleheads which are in season right now), the blog provides links to its suppliers, and information about entertainment and events happening at the restaurant and around town. Tweets include updates regarding drink specials and menu items of the day, as well as interesting food and agriculture related news items, etc. Savvy marketing paired with education and community events - love it!

Finally, my admiration for this restaurant was cemented after reading several news articles that explained how Claire's restaurant had come to be a reality. The restaurant truly was a community supported effort, with members of the small town of Hardwick taking a leap of faith and purchasing $1,000 coupons (redeemable once monthly for $25 of food over Claire's first 4 years of business) in advance of the restaurant's opening to provide operating capital. A community supported restaurant, what a fantastic concept!

So, of course, my first meal in Hardwick had to be at Claire's. I went with Kate, who is one of the collective that run Buffalo Mountain Co-op grocery store, just two doors down on Main Street. The interior of Claire's is inviting and warm, spacious and cozy at the same time. We took a window seat and were greeted by a friendly server who Kate evidently knew quite well. It didn't take me long to figure out that in a town this small, everybody knew everybody. The menu was tantalizing - it was the first part of October, and the bountiful harvest showed through on the tempting selection of appetizers, mains and desserts available that evening. I ended up choosing an acorn squash stuffed with tofu, grains (including groats), and topped with delicious cheese. Luckily I chose to forgo the appetizer (truth be told I had my sights set on a dessert), because the main dish was an extremely generous portion of deliciousness. I somehow made my way through it, and despite feeling very satiated, I believe Kate and I agreed to share a dessert. I cannot recall what it was, but I am certain it was delicious.


During my first couple of weeks living in Hardwick, I fought the urge to return to Claire's. I could only handle so much indulgence and feared I might become addicted to the menu if I went back regularly. I did, however, elect to attend a fundraising event that was being hosted by one of Claire's servers on a Wednesday evening, when the restaurant itself was closed. The server was raising money to fund her trip to Africa, where she would be teaching local people sustainable agricultural practices. Her weapon of choice for fundraising: a dessert buffet. How brilliant!! Who could resist the combination of 'doing good' and indulging one's sweet tooth at the same time? It was sooooooo yummy!

Finally, after about three weeks I broke down and went to Claire's for a second dinner, this time I had the brisket. It was fantastic and, again, an extremely generous serving. At some point I decided that I should check out the bar area of Claire's. Thankfully they served a number of local beers, so I was able to enjoy alcohol while sticking to my locav-or-ganic pledge. After a couple of hours at the bar, chatting with Elena, a wonderful and inspiring woman I'd met my first week in Hardwick, I realised that I'd been missing out dearly by denying myself visits to Claire's. The bar was, after all, THE place to say hello to neighbours and make new friends. It also provided excellent live entertainment every Thursday evening and great drink specials on Sunday and Monday nights. I tried to make up for missed opportunities by going to the bar more frequently than I probably should have, but am quite sure I never made up completely for missed bar fly nights!

I never did get to try Claire's 'Blunch', a twist on the traditional brunch that is served only on Sundays. But I'm heading back to Prince Edward Island soon and have a feeling I may be stopping over in Hardwick for a weekend. If so, I'm pretty sure you'll find me at Claire's on Saturday night and Sunday afternoon!

Below is the brisket I had on my second visit to Claire's.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Hardwick, Vermont - The Beginning...

In my life, I have discovered that places are like people. There are some places where you can always go, knowing that you'll find a feeling of familiarity and of 'being at home', just as there are people in your life with whom you know you can always feel comfortable just being yourself.

There are other places that you'll find yourself in for a slice of your life and, if you are open to it, these places will offer an abundance of experiences that can, in small ways and big ways, change the course of your life and/or your perspective, just as there are people that will pass through your life - they may stay briefly or stick around for longer - that will offer you insights into yourself and the world around you that will serve your evolution. Sometimes these places and people, I'll call them change agents, have such a strong impact on your head or heart that you struggle with leaving or letting them go, even when you innately know it's time to do so.


And then, in rare instances, you may be lucky enough to find yourself in a place that is a source of inspiration and evolution, as well as comfort and familiarity, just as you may be fortunate enough to meet someone whom you are instantly at ease with, but who also challenges you to move beyond your own barriers to growth and then gives you room to grow. These are what I like to think of as our soul-places and our soulmates. Perhaps that's a bit dramatic for some people. I know there are many who do not 'believe' in the concept of a soulmate, but I do believe there are some people and some places, where one's soul can rest easy that it is 'home' while also finding adventure and insight. The thing is, sometimes it's easy to overlook a soul-place or a soulmate. You find yourself instantly comfortable in their presence, so they don't necessarily offer the same intrigue that a change agent might, nor can you immediately place them in your 'safe' corner, because you don't have a history of trust upon which you can rely. So, in the end, you have to listen to and trust your instinct or your 'gut' feeling. Easier said then done, but worth straining your ears to hear and stretching your heart to trust.

And so it was in the early fall of 2009, as the leaves were doing their annual fire dance, that I found myself rolling into a tiny town called Hardwick in the North Eastern Kingdom of Vermont. Little did I know then, as I found my way to Main Street and tentatively entered the Buffalo Mountain Co-op grocery store to find my soon-to-be- landlady, Kate, that I had found that very rare treasure - a soul place.

My first night in Hardwick was a teaser, I arrived at twilight and had to drive on to PEI first thing the following morning to run the half marathon, and then return to Hardwick two weeks later just in time to see out October and begin four weeks of field research. At some point between waiting in the Buffalo cafe for Kate, enjoying a locally-sourced meal at Claire's Restaurant, where it seemed like everyone stopped by to say hello to Kate, and waking up to a crisp mountain air, my heart tugged. I knew then, without a doubt, that this little town was far more than a 'place' for me to carry out my research. It was to be another significant guiding post on my journey, and all I needed to do was be open to the direction it would send me - towards my bliss.